After a couple weeks in the big city of London, we have now adventured into the quiet town of Stratford-Upon-Avon. Notable for being the birth town of William Shakespeare, Stratford-Upon-Avon is a market town just north of London. In comparison, Stratford-Upon-Avon is significantly quieter and quaint. While here we got to tour Shakespeare’s Birthplace, Anne Hathaway’s Cottage, New Place, and the Trinity Church. It is quite fascinating to see the town where Shakespeare lived, as most of the buildings in town look as if they have remained the same for decades. Being someone who has read and performed many of Shakespeare’s plays, it is interesting to see his hometown, potential spots he may have written in, and how the modern era of people living in Stratford-Upon-Avon have used his legacy in their community culture.
Juliet, my tea buddy
There is no doubt that the town has embraced the legacy of the great poet and playwright. One incredible place I got to visit was the Shakespaw Café. Imagine getting to sit and have a cream tea, while also getting to pet and play with cats. A dream come true. Oh, and the cats are named after Shakespearian characters.
The town as a whole is very different from the bustling city. For starters, the air is breathable and less filled with smoke, pollution, and odd smells of vinegar. And I do understand from traveling to New York and Chicago that those are simply city things, it doesn’t discredit the love I have for fresh air and beautiful trees. The town is also different in the fact that everything shuts down very early. In London, you can pretty easily find a bite to eat up into the late hours of the night. Not the same for Stratford-Upon-Avon.
Staying here in Stratford-Upon-Avon was a great way to end my study abroad here in England. The comfort of staying in a cute little townhome, mixed with the fresh air and large abundance of adorable dogs and cats have made this the perfect way to relax and prepare myself to the transition back into real life. I have learned so much while abroad and truly can’t believe it is coming to a close.
I come from a small town, a much smaller town than Stratford. In fact, I do not even live inside that city but five miles outside its limits. Nevertheless, I cannot help but have my heart pulled by this city. The immense history alone is astounding but more than this is the sense of home. On this trip, I have been to three cities in England: London, Stratford-upon-Avon and Bath. Each of these had certain charms and were vastly different from each other. However, I find myself most at home in places like Stratford. It just reminds me of home. People are friendlier and the community is closer together. I love London, and someday I hope to live there and work at the best restaurants in the world. I want to master my art and hone my craft alongside the greatest chefs to ever hold a knife. To be able to make the people I love smile. To make my parents proud. But after all that is said and done and the world begins to pass me by—as it does to all—I will return home. To a place like Stratford. Where my world has always began and ended. Back to the people I love. I firmly believe now that people need to go to places like London. Not to find oneself—I hate that phrase because people should know who they are before making life altering decisions—but to build oneself into what you could be. Stratford and London are both necessary parts of who I am. Shakespeare also expresses this by going to London, makes himself a fortune while blessing the world and then retires to the city that he grew up in to live out his golden years with his family. That is the kind of life I want to lead. In a way I want to try and mimic what he did. Stratford, to me, is the natural conclusion to a trip that took place largely in the big city. After all, It’s the most like home. This trip has taught me something very important—I want to conquer the world but I will always long to be home in my hundred acre wood where the sky is blue and the corn is green.
Stratford-upon-Avon is my favorite place that we have been to so far. The town is very small and quaint and absolutely beautiful at that. One of the things that I immediately noticed when I got here was how crisp and clean the air was compared to London. Not only is the air cleaner, but it also smells a lot better. London on the other hand has a very New York dirty smell to it.
While we were visiting the birthplace and home of Shakespeare, the entire experience felt very surreal to me. I think the reason that I find it so hard to believe that Shakespeare was real (yes, I know he was an actual person) is that there is not really anyone that I can think of today that has had such an impact on the world. Stratford-upon-Avon’s thing is that Shakespeare was from here and most things are Shakespeare related from that. Being able to walk into his home was crazy and surreal in its own way.
Thankfully, we have progressed to the motorized vehicle and use that for a majority of our travel. Those traveling from London to SUA were not so lucky and probably had to go by horse or carriage. The roads of the time were either cobblestone or dirt so the ride to and fro would be incredibly uncomfortable.
On the first day, some of us went and sat on benches by the Ferris wheel and water admiring how stunning this little town is. While sitting, we realized this is the most at home any of us have felt. The park felt like we were sitting at home, and it was the most peaceful I have been on this trip. I have been lucky enough to find a group that I can call my family and I know that we will still be in contact and have each other’s back no matter how far we are. I cannot thank Shawn and study abroad enough for giving me this chance to make my dreams a reality and make unbreakable bonds while doing so.
Here is a final goodbye from the A of the ABCD’S better known as Abby, Ben, Cass, Dru, and Shiloh aka the Scrumps.
My time in Stratford-Upon-Avon has been nothing short of picturesque. Walking down the streets and alleyways where Shakespeare spent parts of his life has been rewarding in and of itself. The town differs from London dramatically, and while I love London for being the great vibrant city it is, I definitely appreciate the quiet nature that Stratford-Upon-Avon has to offer. Aside from the majority of the town going to sleep at a whopping 6pm, I really have enjoyed exploring the city, its shops, and its ghost adventures.
One of my favorite parts of being in Stratford-Upon-Avon the past few days was exploring Shakespeare’s place of birth. I honestly probably took too many pictures, as the future teacher in me will bore my students by showing them the pictures I took of the home. (I already have a plan in my head to make a powerpoint with these pictures for if and when we go through a Shakespeare unit.) I hope that through these experiences, I will encourage my students to study and explore the life of Shakespeare, along with potential plays of his that we read in the classroom. I believe that learning an author’s background is just as important as studying the work itself, so hopefully I will be able to give them a different and unique perspective about his life having been in Stratford-Upon-Avon myself.
Wrapping up the trip, I am very appreciative of all of the sights I have gotten the chance to see. I have always wanted to study abroad, as I remember being in high school imagining where I would end up studying. With the pandemic, I thought this idea would only stay a dream, but I am so glad that this opportunity was given to me. Living in England for four weeks has been wonderful (aside from not having cheese dip but that is another story).
Reflecting on this trip, I have thought long and hard about what has been the most memorable thing I did, what has made me laugh, what has made me feel most alive. However, with this study abroad experience, there is not a single moment that stands out amongst them all. There are so many memories that will stay with me, all of which I will hold dear and appreciate. From looking at the London skyline at the top of St. Paul’s Cathedral, reaching the top of Primrose Hill, trying Bao from Chinatown, and watching Mamma Mia the musical -of course- there are so many memories I will look back on fondly. Each day of this trip has given me a reason to laugh, to smile, and to appreciate the little things in everyday life. England, it has been a pleasure. Until next time.
Introduction: Food is personal for me. It is one of the main reasons that I chose this trip. I love every bite, every savory note, every sting of acid, every rush of sugar and every meal that I have. Not all food is created equal but it all seeks the same goal of making us whole again. My advice for eating in London is to just go out and have great food. It is tempting to spend all your time and money on theatre but I urge you to take the time and have a truly special meal. I promise that you will not regret it.
A. These are the best 25 restaurants that I had in London and Bath
Da Terra: Brazilian and Italian. Best of the best. I hope to make food like this someday. Simply the best I have ever had. Amazing service and ambiance. No frills just amazing food. Tasting menu style. Michelin two stars. Price paid: $400
Rating 11/10
Stand-out dish: Expression of Chicken
You will need a reservation, book weeks in advance
Time dining: three hours
Location: 8 Patriot Square, London E2 9NF
Seven Park Place by William Drabble: French. Second best for a reason. Amazing service and ambiance. Tasting menu style. Michelin one star. Price paid: $280
Rating 10/10
Stand-out dish: Foie Gras with ginger done three ways
You will need a reservation, book weeks in advance
Time dining: three hours
Location: 7-8 Park Pl, St. James’s, London SW1A 1LS
The Ninth: French. This was the hardest and most contested spot on the list as it beats out the number 4 spot. Good service and ambiance. Three course menu style. Michelin one star. Price paid: $70
Rating 9.5/10
Stand-out dish: The Sea Bass Carpaccio with Salsa Verde
You will need a reservation, book days in advance
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: 22 Charlotte St., London W1T 2NB
Sketch the Lecture Room and Library. Modern European. Good food but it struggles next to the extravagance of the service and the environment. If this list was based on experience rather than taste this would be over the Ninth but it ultimately just did not taste as good to me. The best service and ambiance possible. Tasting menu style. Michelin three star. Price paid: $550
Rating 9/10
Stand-out dish: the Grand Desert
You will need a reservation, book months in advance
Time dining: three hours
Location: 9 Conduit St, London W1S 2XG
Gymkhana: Indian. Stunning food. A bit dark but great environment. A great meal to save for. Tasting menu and course styles. Michelin one star. Price paid: $130 but can be done for $50 comfortably.
Rating 9/10
Stand-out dish: Chicken Tikka Masala
You will need a reservation, book a week in advance
Time dining: two hours
Location: 42 Albemarle St, London W1S 4JH
Bancone: Italian. One of the best bang for your buck meals out there. An amazing option for a nicer lunch. Great environment. Course meal style. Bib Gourmand Michelin rating (just under a star). Price paid: $30
Rating 9/10
Stand-out dish: Mushroom Ravioli
You do not have to have a reservation but it is advised
Time dining: an hour
Location: 39 William IV St, London WC2N 4DD
The Elder: Country-side. Very traditional food done very well. Felt like I was in a hunting lodge. Course meal style. Michelin recommended (the lowest of the five levels). Price paid: $50
Rating 8.8/10
Stand-out dish: Venison (deer meat)
You do not have to have a reservation but it is advised
Time dining: an hour
Location: 2-8 S Parade, Bath BA2 4AB
Hoa Sen: Vietnamese. The best Pho I have ever had. Small but pleasant restaurant. Great food for a budget dinner. Super filling. Kind staff. Menu style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $18
Rating 8.7/10
Stand-out dish: Saigon Sate Pho
You do not have to have a reservation
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: 22 Drury Ln, London WC2B 5RH
Bun House: Cantonese. Bao Buns need no further explanation. Small but pleasant. Menu style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $12
Rating 8.7/10
Stand-out dish: Lamb Bao Bun
You do not have to have a reservation but arrive early as this is a popular spot
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: 26-27 Lisle St, London WC2H 7BA
Pataka SOHO Bar and Kitchen: Indian. Cool environment and close to the West-End. Menu style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $20
Rating 8.7/10
Stand-out dish: Biryani
You do not have to have a reservation
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: 53 Shaftesbury Ave, London W1D 6LB
Hiba Street Food: Lebanese. Cramped by worth it. One of the best bang for your buck Menu style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $15
Rating 8.7/10
Stand-out dish: Spicy Humus
You do not have to have a reservation
Time dining: an hour
Location: 10 Tottenham St, London W1T 4RD
North Sea Fish: British. Pick-up or sit down. The best Fish and Chips that I had in London. Close to the Royal National Hotel. Just a great piece of fish. Menu Style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $14
Rating 8.6/10
Stand-out dish: Cod and Chips
You do not have to have a reservation
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: 7-8 Leigh St, London WC1H 9EW
Half Cup: Breakfast. Long wait time but worth it. Best breakfast I found. Menu Style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $18
Rating 8.6/10
Stand-out dish: Smoked Salmon Eggs Benedict.
You do not have to have a reservation but show up as early as you can. Expect to wait
Time dining: an hour
Location: 100-102 Judd St, London WC1H 9NT
The Lemon Tree: Thai-Pub fusion. Great Drink and Food. Bizarre combo works so well. Menu Style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $12
Rating 8.5/10
Stand-out dish: Soya Noodles
You do not have to have a reservation
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: 4 Bedfordbury, London WC2N 4BP
Busaba: Thai. Good for larger groups. Good Thai just not as good as The Lemon Tree. Menu Style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $30
Rating 8.5/10
Stand-out dish: Street Noodles
You do not have to have a reservation
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: 106-110 Wardour St, London W1F 0TR
Box: Middle-eastern. Food truck with great shawarma. One of the best dirt cheap meals. Menu Style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $8
Rating 8.4/10
Stand-out dish: Shawarma
You do not have to have a reservation
Time dining: half hour
Location: CM34+7R, Molesey, East Molesey KT8 9EU
Taste of Chongqing: Chinese. Solid choice and right under the hotel. Nobody speaks English, but if you know that there should be little problem. Menu Style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $20
Rating 8.3/10
Stand-out dish: Braised Beef Noodle Soup.
You do not have to have a reservation
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: 40-42 Woburn Pl, London WC1H 0JR
Café TPT: Cantonese. Good but could be better. Beware of bones in the meat, it is common to cut chicken through the bone and this can be a hazard but unless careless should not be a problem. Menu Style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $15
Rating 8.2/10
Chicken Rice
You do not have to have a reservation
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: 21 Wardour St, London W1D 6PN
Roti King: Eastern Asia. Good food but you have to wait for a long time to eat. And that sets it back on my list. Menu Style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $20
Rating 8.1/10
Stand-out dish: Roti
You do not have to have a reservation but arrive early as this is a popular spot.
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: 40 Doric Way, London NW1 1LH
TrattoriaVerdi: Italian. Solid and cheap. Open till 1am. Menu Style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $8
Rating 8/10
Stand-out dish: Pizza
You do not have to have a reservation
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: 110 Southampton Row, London WC1B 4BL
Prima Saporid’Italia: Italian. Less good version of Trattoria Verte. Decent ambiance. Menu Style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $15
Rating 8/10
Stand-out dish: Pesto Pasta
You do not have to have a reservation
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: Jubilee Market Hall, 1-13 Tavistock St, London WC2E 8BE
Bala Baya: Israeli. Arguably the biggest disappointment. It was so expensive to eat here for what was average food at best. The only reason it is here is because the food was 8/10 but it cost so much and took three to four mains to become even mildly full it lands here. Loud music and little warning about the menu. Small Plate Menu Style. Michelin Recommended. Price paid: $60
Experience Rating 6/10, Food Rating 8/10
Stand-out dish: Humus.
It is not required but is a good idea to book the day of
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: Arch 25, Old union yard arches, 229 Union St, London SE1 0LR
28-50 Oxford Circus: British. I had a great time here because I had a bunch of people go with me but had that not been the case there were a few glaring weaknesses in the food. It was also extremely loud and about $40 too pricy. Menu Style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $70
Rating 7.5/10
Stand-out dish: Burrata
You do not have to have a reservation but it helps
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: 4 Great Portland St, London W1W 8QJ
Street Easy: It says Caribbean but basically Americana. Average in every sense of the word. It is a little pricy but inflation will do that to a place. Menu Style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $20
Rating 7.5/10
Stand-out dish: Birra Tacos
You do not have to have a reservation
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: 55-57 Exmouth Market, London EC1R 4QL
Nonos Kings Cross: Mediterranean. Good food for the price of great food. They messed up one of my favorite foods—moussaka which in my mind is pretty unforgivable. But still okay if that is all you have. Menu Style. No Michelin rating. Price paid: $30
Rating 7/10
Stand-out dish: Drink menu
You do not have to have a reservation
Time dining: hour and a half
Location: 112 Judd St, London WC1H 9NT
B. Best cheap eats
1. Hoa Sen: great Vietnamese food. It is easy to do a meal here for $15 and be stuffed. The Pho and fresh rolls are to die for.
2. Bun House: If you want great Bao this is the place. For 11 pounds you get four extremely large Bao Buns that would fill a giant up.
3. Hiba Street Food: killer food for the value. I had to waddle home after this one and all for the low price of $15. It is hard to beat that.
4. North Sea Fish: when in London have Fish and Chips. This place offers a massive portion for under $15 that I could not even finish. It is fresh fish, beer battered and fried to perfection.
5. Roti King: really tasty Roti which is not the most common thing in America, so it can offer new flavors and a break from the monotony of Tesco’s.
C. Best Items
1. Fish and Chips – North Sea Fish
2. Best Pub food – Hung, Drawn and Quartered
3. Eastern Asain – Hoa Sen
4. Indian – Gymkhana
5. Main course – Da Terra’s Expression of Chicken
6. Starter – Hiba’s Humus
7. Dessert – The Ninth’s Carbonated Rhubarb Cheesecake
8. Cream Tea – British museum
D. Best Markets
1. Borough Market: this was my favorite and the best for anyone who loves food. The options are crazy here from fresh fish to exotic chesses to homemade olive oils. Some of the best things to look for is the fried rice that they make with different proteins. The sheer quantity of food here makes it impossible to sample everything but hold yourself back if you do not have to have something because I promise you there is enough food that you will have to have to fill you up. Plus they have the best spice shop I have ever seen.
2. Camden Market: Another foodie paradise but there is much more here than street food. The thrift scene is very strong and there are more clothing stores than food stalls. Some of the highs are fresh orange juice. It is expensive but trust me it is totally worth it. Camden has one of the largest selection of middle-eastern food, so try and get spiced lamb and some different kinds of wraps. There are a few famous stalls in Camden that are world renowned for their innovative flavors. But those are for you to find.
3. Spitalfields Market: Number three on the list but definitely not because it is not great just because your food options are more limited. More of the usual food carts are restaurants which makes the area feel more cramped which can be a hindrance when it comes to just trying to get some good food. This is an awesome place to thrift and is an excellent place to pick up unique and personalized gifts for family and friends back home.
E. Tips and Tricks when Eating in London
1. Have a plan. Know what you want before you start to look. This seems simple enough but having a basic idea of what you want and home much you are looking to spend can be a major help when searching for what you want.
2. If you can book a reservation—do it. This one is a must. You do not live here and you do not know how busy certain places will be. My rule of thumb is if it is over $25 I try and book it. This ties into tip one by having a good plan—you can book ahead and make your life so much easier.
3. Read reviews. I do not mean you need to read all thousand reviews but try and look at the most recent two or three and compare it to the overall. This helps me narrow down my choices.
4. Try not to eat a lot in one sitting. This is only for markets but when you are at a market think quality over quantity. You want to sample rather than get just one place. When I went to Borough, I had four or five small portions and was able to try whatever I wanted as long as I did not eat more than a small portion of whatever I got.
5. Tesco is your friend. Budgeting is crucial to your trip. I ate the complementary breakfast at the hotel most days and had Tesco’s for one of the remaining two meals. This helps save money for a nicer lunch or dinner.
Stratford-upon-Avon has had an air of familiarity since we arrived. There is a tone and atmosphere which reminds me of small-town America in some ways. If it weren’t for the historic tudor architecture everywhere, you could probably convince me that I was tucked into a small river town in Michigan, rather than just a few hours outside of London.
My first evening was filled with a good deal of exploring. Thus far, I’ve been surprised at how much of this already-tiny town is dedicated to green recreation space. The riverfront in the center of town is sandwiched between two wonderful parks, one with benches and fountains and the other a sprawling lawn with willows lining the waterfront. It’s such a picturesque scene, it’s difficult not to romanticize as the swans flock to each bank hoping for morsels. It seems that the people of Stratford are no strangers to leaning into the weekend, Friday evening at the park was full of picnics, drinking, and general shenanigans from the locals. I found myself climbing a tree with Ben, probably the first time I had shimmied up one since I started college. From the top, it was possible to look down the river to the footbridge and see the new Ferris Wheel towering over the park.
It is clear that the town is proud of its claim-to-fame as the birthplace of Shakespeare. It’s difficult to walk a block in town without finding a reference to him somewhere. I enjoyed seeing the house that he was born in, and also thought the visit to the site of his home later in life, where he eventually died, was worthwhile. Of course, it is easy to wish that such a significant site had never been torn down in the first place, but the gardens that occupy the site now give a great opportunity to contemplate Shakespeare’s contributions to the world.
I’m happy that this is where we’re wrapping up the trip. It feels like a soft close after a month of constant activity in London.
At the beginning of the Theatre and Performance section of the Victoria and Albert Museum, you’re greeted with two rooms that contain quiet relics related to ballet dance. It surprised me, honestly, that so much of the exhibit was dedicated to the study of ballet because it’s not something that I immediately associate with theatre, or at least, not as a thesis statement for a theatre exhibit. However, when walking through halls of dance costumes, I was struck by the tension of how small and fragile these dresses appear compared to the strength required of the dancers. Charts of exercises and photos of dancers in training line the walls as testaments to the years of work required to perform in this field.
Fougasse (Cyril Bird). Ballet Exercises for Athletes. 1950s, the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
As I approached a photo of Adeline Genée in The Dryad, I couldn’t help but think of Laura Wingfield. Genée stands on pointe looking back at the photographer as she lifts a tree branch towards the sky. The wall text explains that The Dryad is “the story of a nymph trapped in an oak tree and only released once every ten years…she falls in love with a shepherd and is in despair when, a decade later, she finds he has been unfaithful” (Adeline Genée in The Dryad-1915). Every ten years the nymph is set free from the home that has become her cage, but ten years is a long time to wait. If you’re confined by illness, anxiety, or fear for ten years, you miss out on a lot of life. For me, this is the essence of who Laura Wingfield is: her mental and physical disabilities paralyzed her for so long that she struggles to catch up with her peers and enter the world of the living.
Cecil, Hugh. Adeline Genée in The Dryad. 1915, photograph, the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Yet, seeing these costumes on display made me realize why I disliked the take on Laura that we saw at the Duke of York’s Theatre. Lizzie Annis’s rendition of Laura was much more childlike than I expected her to be, and maybe this choice was the director’s interpretation of Laura’s mental illness. However, I think what we missed from Annis’s performance was Laura’s strength. Despite the ways in which her disorder, and her inability to receive help for that disorder, slowly make her world smaller, we see glimmers of the person that she could be rise to the surface. She acts as a peacemaker between Tom and Amanda, she “notices things” like Tom’s sadness (Williams, Act I, Scene IV) and takes them to heart, and of course, she very briefly begins to open up to Jim. Her illness may make her appear fragile like the glass menagerie that she treasures, but these glimpses of happiness show us how easily Laura could come alive again, if, like working a muscle or rehearsing a dance, she was to edge into the outside world more often.
In a similar sense, the Victoria and Albert Museum’s display of Margot Fonetyn’s costume in Les Sylphides appears small and unassuming at first glance. A gauzy, white tutu with a pink flower crown and the smallest, most delicate wings sits inside a glass case near the corner of the room. It’s almost hard to believe that something so small and ethereal housed a person as strong and capable as a world class ballerina. This blend of strength and fragility is, I think, what I wanted to see from a character like Laura. Yet, Annis’s take seemed to leave little room for hope for Laura Wingfield.
Benois, Alexandre. Costume for Margot Fonteyn in Les Sylphides. 1960s, tulle, satin, silk, and wire, the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
After Jim kisses Laura in the Duke of York Theatre production that we saw, Annis’s Laura looked dazed and goofily happy, and the audience laughed at her naivete. A similar tone occurred as Laura argues with Amanda about opening the door for Jim and Tom. Annis shrugged as if trying to win over the audience, and again, there was a moment where they laughed at how avoidant she was. Maybe I’m being overtly critical, but I just didn’t understand the character in this way. Leaving room for a kind of pitying laughter implies that Laura exists so far away from the outside world that she’s an oddity that can never be comfortable in reality. In short, I wanted to believe that someday, even if it took another ten years after her encounter with Jim, Laura might gather enough courage to try and live again. I wanted to believe that Laura would grow to leave the apartment like Genée’s nymph continually breaks out of her tree. Jeremy Herrin’s production didn’t convince me of this. However, the Victoria and Albert museum made me realize just how possible it would have been to communicate Laura’s quiet strength even through something like costume design.
More later,
Kath
Another view of Margot Fonteyn’s costume.
Sources
Adeline Genée in The Dryad (1915). Wall text, Theatre and Performance Exhibit, the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Williams, Tennessee. The Glass Menagerie. New Directions, 1999.
What I am about to say might sound sacrilegious but I am afraid that I must, in the words of Shakespeare, “to myself be true.” The best theatre I saw was not on the West-End or in cramped fringe theatres—it was in the dining room. I see how this might seem offensive. After all this is a theatre trip not a cookery trip. When people think on what is art—things like literature, painting, music and theatre come to mind. However in my world, food is the highest art. This is not because it is the hardest or most beautiful but because it is the only art that is essential to our very existence. Do not get me twisted, plays have the potential to move people to tears or laughter which is precious to all that have attended this trip. But food is necessary for us to survive, and by making delicious food—we stimulate the body and the mind. I preface my food adventure with this because to understand what I ate it is essential to understand why I eat.
My food experiences on this trip are extensive. I have eaten at over thirty different restaurants from fine dining to street vendors. I could easily gush about the food I had at the most prestigious restaurants but I think that would undermine the city of London. This city has the most diverse offerings of food in the world period. And that is made clear from any market that you could visit. Instead, I want to talk about a little restaurant that I found that represents the food culture that I love so dearly. Tabi and I during the first week were trying to conserve some money but still wanted to eat good. This was partially due to the fact that I tend to blow through my weekly allowance in one or two meals. Nevertheless, I found a place that look cheap enough but seemed to be of quality. We entered Hiba Street Food around six. Within a few seconds we were seated at the end of a long, slender hallway in which the whole restaurant was contained. To put into perspective just how small it was, the entire thing was about the size of a hotel room. The smell as we sat eagerly waiting to order was some kind of torture. Hiba specialized in Lebanese cuisine which is similar to Greek and Mediterranean. I ordered some spicy humus, one of my favorites. Our waiter brought out fresh pita and some of the most creamy and salivating humus that I have ever had. I ordered Lahem Meshwi which is a dish of skewered lamb and spiced rice. The lamb was tender and juicy with the just the right amount of spice. The rice was fluffy and sucked up the leftover juices of the lamb which packed each granule with even more umami. We finished our meal with some flakey baklava. The best part is that for a starter, two mains and desert it was only thirty euros. The food was not fancy. There were no frills. Only flavor unadulterated by the accoutrement of modern dining. I will later write a second food blog giveng my food awards and recommendations. Bon Appetit mes amis.
My favorite part of studying abroad in London has been all the theatre that we have watched. In the three weeks we spent here I have seen 14 plays and each of those in some element have been some of the most impressive shows I have ever seen. Life of Pi had the best use of special effects I had ever seen, Six won a Tony for best costume the night I saw it, and 2:22 created suspense in a way that I had never experienced before in a theatre. All of these were incredible but at the end of the trip, one of my favorite acting performances belonged to someone performing off of West End, David Walmsley as Agamemnon in Girl on an Alter. Girl on an Alter was performed at the Kiln Theatre and was one of the only fringe shows I saw while in London. Despite our theatre group as a whole having mixed opinions about this show, I enjoyed so much, and mostly because of Walmsley. This guy was born for this role and he absolutely dominated every scene he was in. Despite him physically being an absolute unit, this guy perfectly played the role of an alpha male obsessed with his own power and glory while simultaneously allowing his humanity to shine through just enough to keep him redeemable in a story where he murders his own child. As an actor, I could only imagine how much time he spent shaping this character mannerisms. Everything move he made projected power and arrogance right down to the walk and posture and voice that he maintained throughout the whole play. Despite some of the supporting cast performing at a lower level than Walmsley, I took away from the experience that even at a fringe show can you see an actor at the top of their game who can show you a performance like you’ve never witnessed before.
I would love to tell you that I branched out so widely during this trip, but I haven’t. I have had Five Guys on five separate occasions, Slim chickens twice, and I think I have a medical condition where my body instinctively forces me to involuntarily walk to anyplace that sells pasta. I have had so much pasta. I have had fish & chips at a couple different locations in London and in Oxford…massive fan. It’s a classic here and they’re right for it, fish & chips is lovely. I only had one semi-expensive meal with a group which included some of the best asparagus & gnocchi I’ve ever had, but again with the pasta.
Pasta is almost religious to me, but to me the most spiritual of all pasta dishes is macaroni & cheese. It’s my favorite dish. (Isaac please if you’re reading this just stop. Stop now.) Mac & cheese makes me giddy. It’s the most comforting food, it’s hard to mess up, it contains my favorite ingredients and I have genuinely cried over a bowl of mac & cheese before. It’s just that special to me. I have bad news though, the macaroni & cheese I had in London was absolutely repulsive. I was disgusted, disappointed and have been on a hunt since the first week of this trip to find the creamiest, cheesiest mac & cheese available. This is where the good news comes in, I FOUND IT. I FOUND IT TODAY.
I don’t know if you all have noticed, but there is a chain called Greene King that has over 2,000 pubs in the UK. They all have different names, but the same personality, kind of like anyone named Karen. Except imagine if being a Karen meant you were nice, fun, exciting, safe, and felt like home. Greene King’s are elite, every single one I have been in has an amazing atmosphere and really good pub food. This one though, this Greene King, the Rose & Crown wins. If I could have given a hug and a kiss on the forehead to the cook at this pub, I would have. Simply because there was mac & cheese on the menu, and delicious mac at that. I was ecstatic when I ordered, because I have built trust with this chain. I just knew deep down that if anyone understands how important it is that this comfort dish is creamy & inspired, it’s Greene King. When the big moment came and our waiter brought us our food, I took one look at what was in front of me and grabbed onto Dru’s arm harder than I should have. Then, I said a prayer in my head blessing the cook, the food, my friends, the owner of Greene King, the Queen herself, hell I even prayed for the dogs that were allowed in the pub with us. Everyone deserved a little mention to the Lord above because I was finally eating macaroni & cheese that looked like it was prepared by an angel. Even better, it tasted holy too. I ate more than I typically eat, but I am trying to control the urge to go back this very minute and have the same thing for dinner. I love mac & cheese okay.
As childish as it may be, this was overall my most rewarding eating experience on this trip and I will never take it back. It was so simple and gave me so much joy, if you need some classic comfort food tonight, run to Rose & Crown. I seriously might be there.
Theatre in London U of A 