I was very lucky to have an opportunity to speak with Jonah one of the hosts at our Bed and Breakfast. He’s lived in Stratford-Upon-Avon his whole life and has a deep knowledge of its history and will always take the opportunity to share his knowledge to both captive and captivated audiences. There was a large map of Stratford on the wall of the breakfast room. He had asked me if I knew how Stratford got it’s name. He indicated to the map which shows 5-8 major roads that all lead toward the heart of the town. He explained that this was the only area that had a ford in the river, a shallow area that is easily crossed whether on foot, horseback or wagon. This ford was the only way for people to cross the river for several tens of miles which made it a very popular spot for tradesman and merchants. Hence how the town got its name, the strait ford upon Avon. This ford is the reason that William Shakespeare was born in Stratford-Upon-Avon, his father was a tradesman who made and sold gloves. Stratford was an advantageous location for him to be able to get his goods to either side of the river.
The town itself could not be more different that London. It’s cobble stone streets and sidewalks that wind through buildings that look like something out of the book of fairytales I used to read as a child. Stratford feels removed from the modern world, but not in the same way as Bath. Bath felt tied to ancient ruins, felt more of a time machine. Stratford felt like a portal into a fairytale. If it weren’t for the McDonald’s and Tesco Express I might have believed it. There’s a romantic element, not only in the architecture but also in the aura of the town. Everything moves a little slower, feels a little easier, the air feels brighter and cleaner. The people feel like a true community, it has the small town feel where the locals know everyone and are always meddling in each other’s business.
The people of Stratford are extraordinarily proud of their town and they should be. It’s a beautiful place that seems to thrive off the love of community and history. It is interesting that so much of William Shakespeare’s history has been preserved. It feels like not only the townsfolk, but also Shakespeare himself knew how legendary he would become. The house Shakespeare was born in stands tall and well taken care of, his grave sits in pride of place on the altar of Holy Trinity Church, much to Queen Elizabeth I’s disappointment. His funeral monument that was immaculately created has withstood 500 years and been preserved by a hundred generations of the people of Stratford.
The only piece of Shakespeare that hasn’t stood the test of time is The New Place, Shakespeare’s marital home he shared with Anne Hathaway. Jonas was all too kind to give me the history on The New Place. In the 1700s it was inhabited by a local vicar who became quite irritated by the number of people who would knock on his door asking to see the place where Shakespeare had written several of his plays. He became so annoyed that he tore down the house so as to live unbothered once more. Jonas went on to tell me that for most of his lifetime that corner lot were beautiful public gardens that the community were able to enjoy. He said about 10-20 years ago the Shakespeare Centre took control of the location and created the museum and gardens that we were able to visit. He was happy to tell me that the locals are still provided free access to the gardens as they are no longer public and only tourists have to pay for entry.
Stratford was slow, romantic, with an edge of magic that created the perfect culmination of my time in England.
Theatre in London U of A 