The first thing I was drawn to at the National Portrait Gallery was the self-portrait of Scottish Theatrical Designer Doris Zinkeisen. The contrast, I think, was what did it: her dynamic angle against a flat backdrop, and her pale skin, itself shadowed, against a black kimono with a brightly colored pattern. The contrasts create a captivating and clearly understood image, especially at its large scale.
Doris’ overall look in this portrait evokes a flamboyant and risque artist, standing before what could be an unfinished backdrop, a swath of fabric for a costume, or even a stage curtain. The lacey edge of the kimono draped along her hand creates a reverence for the artist’s hands, sheltering them from view while drawing attention from the viewer with contrast and repetition in pattern. Her hair is stylish but out of the way, drawing little attention away from her face, which is lit up with strong blush and bright lipstick. (note that the blue element in the hair is a reflection)
The composition is aloof, perhaps even disarming, as if she’d heard you just moments ago and turned to meet your gaze. The shadows over her face and chest serve to distinguish her from the light background, while also creating a mysterious emotional caste throughout the painting. It’s not perhaps her best light and angle, evoking a turn that in film might signal murderous intent, but here it creates an honest, vulnerable image. Combined with her loose kimono, the scene feels emotionally intimate.
Thematically, I see this image following that thread of emotional intimacy all the way into this artist’s mind. The Kimono, a black void loosely draped, is full of color and design, like the inside of her mind. The style of painting on the kimono looks more like Trompe-l’œil than a more typical kimono design.
If I could step into this portrait, I would first look to see how the artist’s facial expression changes as I step into view. Would she be shocked and step away, or maintain that confident gaze? Then, as the setting focuses in, what kind of workshop would I find myself in? The image has left it unclear. I expect the smell of paint to be heavy wherever I end up. I also would expect a floral perfume, with notes of grass, matching the look of the kimono.
Theatre in London U of A 